Decommed - The New Norman – 5.10d


13m / 43ft, 6 bolts
FA: marcus norman - 2022-10-16

Description:

What a boondoggle this line turned out to be.
Aka Punter Prince Memorial Route.
I tried (and failed) to make this line work but between the choss, the hollow flakes, and the very meh climbing - I stripped my hangers off this. If someone really wants to take a crack - studs are still there.

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Recent Sendage:

  • 5.11b
    2023-06-04
  • 5.11b
    2023-06-03
  • 5.11b
    2022-10-16 (FA)
    This 6-bolt gem immed right of Letterbuck has the dubious distinction of being the easiest on the U Wall. Edit - October 2022 - I listened to feedback about the loose rock and took action. At the end of it all I can say is I probably should have just stripped the hangers - but the challenge was there to see what was possible. Im not sure its any better- but it certainly is safer. You can polish a turd - but its still a turd.
  • 5.10d
    2022-08-18
    I think if this route was cleaned thoroughly with a crowbar, two of the bolts would come off with the flakes... Honestly this route should not exist and might kill somebody. In an area with mostly fantastic rock a lot of people aren't wearing helmets
  • 5.10d
    2022-07-28
    Felt spooked for the belayer